Kathryn Rem| State Journal-Register
Imagine feeding more than 3 million Civil War soldiers in the days before refrigeration, modern packaging, convenience foods, speedy transportation and knowledge of safe storage and food handling.
“Better wear out your pans with scouring than your stomachs with purging,” cautioned James M. Sanderson, a New York hotel operator who helped teach cooking techniques to the Union army.
Sanitation, however, was not a problem when Civil War cooking was demonstrated earlier this month by the 114th Regiment Illinois Volunteer Infantry (Reactivated), a Civil War re-enactors group, at the Old State Capitol in Springfield.
Among the dishes prepared were chicken fricassee, mushroom ketchup (a condiment made by boiling mushrooms), a beef-and-potato stew, cornish game hens and ham and beans -- foods that would have been made by Union soldiers.
One staple of the Union soldier’s diet was hardtack, a flour-and-water biscuit that was hardened to a rock-like texture. Because it could be stored for long periods of time, hardtack often became infested with weevils and worms. One solution was to soften it in coffee.
“The bugs floated to the surface. Skim off the weevils, drink the coffee and you’re good for another day,” said re-enactor Troy Gilmore of Springfield.
Alternatively, hardtack could be moistened with water, or made into a dish called skillygallee by crumbling it into hot bacon grease. Add diced potatoes and salt pork, and it became a meal called scouse.
Food rations dispensed to Union soldiers were simple: meat (usually pork or beef), coffee, sugar and hardtack. The meat was salted or dried so it would last longer. Sometimes beans, split peas, dried fruits or root vegetables were provided. Diets were supplemented – in season—with foraged fruits and vegetables.
Soldiers kept their food in a special canvas bag called a haversack, which was tarred on the outside to repel moisture. Also in the haversack would have been a fork – maybe also a spoon and knife – and a bowl.
A Confederate soldier typically had bacon, cornmeal, tea, sugar, molasses and an occasional fresh vegetable in his rations. The cornmeal was used to make johnnie cake, a fried flatbread.
Rations issued to Union soldiers on the move usually lasted three to five days, and the food was consumed whenever time allowed, said Michael Burke, assistant manager of living history at the Old State Capitol Historic Site. But if the military unit was stationary for a period of time, a temporary camp could be assembled. There, food was more varied and plentiful and the soldiers might get three meals a day.
“Families also sent food to their soldiers, things like canned lobster, pickles and fresh vegetables. The mail service was pretty good,” he said.
To avoid carrying their rations, some soldiers “gobbled them up and then went hungry for a few days,” Burke said. “Hunger was common.”
Many of the soldiers had no cooking skills; women or slaves typically handled home kitchen chores.
“As a result, almost every food in the Civil War was fried. It’s easy to fry food,” Burke said.
Despite the obstacles, military cooking over a campfire in the early 1860s resulted in some pleasing meals.
“Most people are surprised that it tasted so good,” Burke said. “People back then were like people today – they liked to eat really good food.”
***
These historic recipes were compiled by the 114th Regiment Illinois Volunteer Infantry (Reactivated) and the Old State Capitol Historic Site. Although the dishes are best when cooked over a campfire, they also can be prepared indoors.
Chicken Fricassee
Slices of pork seasoned with 1 teaspoon salt
Slices of chicken
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Place salted pork in a pan for frying. When warm, add chicken, leaving enough room to turn the meat. Turn the meat until it is cooked and golden brown. Remove chicken, but cover to keep it warm.
Add flour to the grease and pork in the pan. Stir well for 2 minutes; add some boiling water to make gravy. When gravy is smooth and boiling, add chicken back to the pan. Season with pepper.
Split Pea Stew
1/2 pound cubed fresh beef
Flour
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound dried split peas, soaked overnight and drained
1 cup diced potato
1 cup diced parsnip
1/2 cup diced onion
Coat meat with flour; brown in butter. Add meat and soaked peas to 3 pints boiling water. Add potato, parsnip and onion; simmer 1 hour. You will know when it is ready when peas break down and stew thickens.
Flapjacks
1 cup flour
Salt, to taste
Sugar
Mix flour, 2 tablespoons water and salt into a doughy compound. Fry until golden brown on both sides. Add sugar as a topping.
Kathryn Rem can be reached at 788-1520.
