FARE OF THE COUNTRY; The Hearty Breads Of Portugal's Hearths (Published 1989) (2024)

Travel|FARE OF THE COUNTRY; The Hearty Breads Of Portugal's Hearths

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FARE OF THE COUNTRY

By Marvine Howe

FARE OF THE COUNTRY; The Hearty Breads Of Portugal's Hearths (Published 1989) (1)

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January 15, 1989

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DESPITE attempts to introduce modern, refined bread, the Portuguese by and large prefer the old-fashioned country kind, loaves that are big and rough and the color of earth, with crisp crust and a moist interior.

Not that what they call poor man's bread ever lost favor with real bread lovers. But in recent years, smooth bread - the kind that can be found everywhere and is easily forgotten - appeared on the market. This unfortunate development was probably part of the Portuguese push for modernization and a reaction to traditional bread, which smacked of peasants and poverty.

On a recent visit to Portugal, I made a tour of my favorite bakeries in the Lisbon region and was delighted to see people lined up to buy country bread, variously called pao (pronounced something like pound without the d) saloio, pao caseiro or pao de Mafra. The cheap, convenient carcaca, or roll, is still the best seller, but the fashion for bland, squishy bread seemed on the decline.

I was told the revival of country breads, made with natural ingredients only and often fired in wood ovens, is thanks to the worldwide discovery that rough fare is not only tastier but healthier.

Jean Anderson, author of ''The Food of Portugal,'' explains that this bread has such a wonderful, jaw-breaking crust and moist, chewy interior because it is baked at intense heat over coals in a brick or stone oven filled with steam, ''just like a sauna.''

The main reason country bread is so good, she says, is that it is made of four ingredients: good flour (either hard wheat or unbleached), a lot of water, a small quantity of yeast and very little salt - no fats, sugar or preservatives.

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FARE OF THE COUNTRY; The Hearty Breads Of Portugal's Hearths (Published 1989) (2024)

FAQs

What is the most popular bread in Portugal? ›

One of the finest examples of Portugal's bread tradition is the Broa de Milho, a hearty cornbread with a crispy crust and dense interior. It originates from the rural north of Portugal, where it's traditionally baked in wood-fired ovens along the Minho region.

Why is Portuguese bread so good? ›

The main reason country bread is so good, she says, is that it is made of four ingredients: good flour (either hard wheat or unbleached), a lot of water, a small quantity of yeast and very little salt - no fats, sugar or preservatives.

What is the Portuguese bread called? ›

Pão doce ( lit. 'sweet bread') is a sweet bread from the Central Region that traditionally required additional steps. An initial dough made of flour, yeast, butter, and salt was prepared.

What is the difference between Portuguese bread and Italian bread? ›

Barbara Peev, manager of Bread-Z, explained the difference between Italian and Portuguese breads: “Italian bread is a little more dense with a little more salt. Portuguese bread is lighter inside and a little less salty, which makes it a little sweeter dough.”

What is the number 1 food in Portugal? ›

Bacalhau, which translates to cod in English, is Portugal's national dish, a symbol of the country's identity, and one of the most popular foods in restaurants across the country. Bacalhau is such a go-to staple in Portuguese cuisine that it even has an endearing nickname: fiel amigo, or faithful friend.

How do you eat Portuguese bread? ›

In this country, the round, mahogany-colored loaf often includes subtle hints of both lemon and vanilla. While it's traditionally served plain or with butter, it also makes delicious toast (or French toast).

What do Portuguese eat everyday? ›

Generally speaking, typical Portuguese home-cooked food revolves around proteins such as pork, chicken and fish, legumes, vegetables (particularly leafy greens used in stews and soups which we explore further below, or simple preparations which will have them boiled or steamed), bread, cheese, and cold cuts (including ...

Why is Portuguese bread yellow? ›

There is nothing like a fresh broa! Broa de milho is a rich and dense bread, a bit sweet, whose yellow colour comes from corn flour. Traditionally made in the North of Portugal, this bread is a mix of wheat and cornflour, and then baked in a wood oven.

Why do they put an egg in Portuguese sweet bread? ›

The egg symbolizes new life and the resurrection of Christ. When the Portuguese immigrated to this area, they brought the tradition with them, opened bakeries and shared their culture.

Do Portuguese eat a lot of bread? ›

Bread plays an important role in traditional Portuguese cuisine and forms the basis of many hearty soups and main dishes, especially in the Alentejo region.

What is the Portuguese breakfast? ›

A typical Portuguese breakfast, or "pequeno almoço", is quite simple and light compared to other Western countries. It usually often consists of a bread roll (papo-seco) or toast (tosta) with butter, jam, or cheese, and a strong coffee (bica) or milky coffee (galão).

What makes Portuguese bread so good? ›

Portuguese bread is special for a few reasons: Texture: It's got a crunchy outside and a soft inside, making it super yummy. Taste: Portuguese bread tastes rich and a little sweet, thanks to how it's made and the good ingredients.

Is Hawaiian bread the same as Portuguese bread? ›

When I came to the US for the first time, I saw bags of “Hawaiian bread” that looked similar to the “pao doce” from my childhood. Only a few years later I learned that indeed those are all the same, brought both to Hawaii and New England by Portuguese immigrants.

What does bread in Portuguese sound like? ›

pão (bread) is pronounced like: powhn with a nasal sound on the vowel and a very subtle “n” sound to close the word. (Note: if you pronounce this word without the accent, it will come out with the sound of “pow” which is the Portuguese word “pau” which means wood or stick).

What is the most popular sandwich in Portugal? ›

Francesinha. Possibly the most famous Portuguese sandwich, the Francesinha is a genuine – if slightly chaotic – masterpiece. A far cry from the simplicity of the bifana and prego, this is the kind of legendary dish that everyone should try at least once – ideally in Porto, where it was invented.

Which is the national dish of Portugal? ›

Bacalhau

The national dish of Portugal, bacalhau is dried and salted codfish, which is usually soaked in milk or water before cooking. The Portuguese have been eating bacalhau since the 16th century when their fishing boats brought it back from Newfoundland.

What is the most popular breakfast in Portugal? ›

Most commonly, the Portuguese will have something simple, like toast with butter, however, there are a few more bread selections to choose from. Croissant: either plain or with ham and cheese for a bit more sustenance. Toast: as mentioned, usually with butter. However, some people swap out butter for fruit jelly.

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