Travel|FARE OF THE COUNTRY; The Hearty Breads Of Portugal's Hearths
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FARE OF THE COUNTRY
By Marvine Howe
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This is a digitized version of an article from The Times’s print archive, before the start of online publication in 1996. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them.
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DESPITE attempts to introduce modern, refined bread, the Portuguese by and large prefer the old-fashioned country kind, loaves that are big and rough and the color of earth, with crisp crust and a moist interior.
Not that what they call poor man's bread ever lost favor with real bread lovers. But in recent years, smooth bread - the kind that can be found everywhere and is easily forgotten - appeared on the market. This unfortunate development was probably part of the Portuguese push for modernization and a reaction to traditional bread, which smacked of peasants and poverty.
On a recent visit to Portugal, I made a tour of my favorite bakeries in the Lisbon region and was delighted to see people lined up to buy country bread, variously called pao (pronounced something like pound without the d) saloio, pao caseiro or pao de Mafra. The cheap, convenient carcaca, or roll, is still the best seller, but the fashion for bland, squishy bread seemed on the decline.
I was told the revival of country breads, made with natural ingredients only and often fired in wood ovens, is thanks to the worldwide discovery that rough fare is not only tastier but healthier.
Jean Anderson, author of ''The Food of Portugal,'' explains that this bread has such a wonderful, jaw-breaking crust and moist, chewy interior because it is baked at intense heat over coals in a brick or stone oven filled with steam, ''just like a sauna.''
The main reason country bread is so good, she says, is that it is made of four ingredients: good flour (either hard wheat or unbleached), a lot of water, a small quantity of yeast and very little salt - no fats, sugar or preservatives.
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